Jewellery (jewelry in the US) is one of the easiest things to buy online and one of the easiest to get wrong. Product names like "gold ring" can mean solid gold, a thin coating over brass, or something in between. The metal description tells you what you're really paying for.

Gold: karats and purity

Gold purity is measured in karats (spelled carats in the UK, not to be confused with the carat weight of gemstones). Pure gold is 24 karat. Lower karats are mixed with other metals for strength and colour.

KaratGold contentCommon stamp
24k99.9%999
22k91.6%916
18k75%750
14k58.3%585
10k41.7%417
9k37.5%375

Higher karats are richer in colour but softer, so they scratch and bend more easily. Lower karats are harder-wearing. In the US, 10k is the lowest purity that can be sold as karat gold; in the UK, 9k is common.

White, yellow and rose gold are all real gold; the colour comes from the other metals in the alloy. White gold is often plated with rhodium for extra brightness, which can wear away over time and need replating.

Plated, filled and vermeil: what's underneath

These terms describe a layer of gold over another metal. They can look identical in photos.

  • Gold plated: a very thin layer of gold applied over a base metal such as brass or copper. Affordable, but the layer can wear through with daily use.
  • Gold filled: a much thicker layer of gold bonded to a base metal. In the US, it must make up a set proportion of the item's weight and is often marked something like "1/20 14K GF". It generally lasts much longer than plating.
  • Vermeil: gold over a sterling silver base. In the US, vermeil has a minimum gold purity and thickness. Elsewhere the term may be used more loosely, so check the listing for both the base metal and the thickness.
  • "Gold tone" or "gold colour": usually means no real gold at all.

If a listing doesn't say what the base metal is, ask before you buy, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Silver and other metals

  • Sterling silver is 92.5% silver, usually stamped 925. It tarnishes over time but cleans up well.
  • Silver plated is a thin silver coating over another metal.
  • Platinum and palladium are dense, naturally white metals that don't need plating.
  • Stainless steel and titanium are durable, affordable alternatives that don't tarnish.

Hallmarks in the UK and quality marks in the US

In the UK, items sold as gold, silver, platinum or palladium must, above small minimum weights, be hallmarked by an independent assay office. A full hallmark shows who made or sponsored the item, its purity (such as 750 or 925) and which assay office tested it. A hallmark is strong evidence of what the metal is.

In the US, there's no compulsory independent testing. Items carry a quality mark (such as 14K or 925), and federal rules require a maker's trademark alongside it. The mark is the seller's claim rather than an independent test, so the seller's reputation matters more. Our guide on checking whether an online store is legit helps here.

Allergies and sensitive skin

Some people react to certain metals, and nickel is a common culprit. Nickel can appear in base metals, in some white gold alloys and in cheap fixings such as earring posts and clasps. If you know you react to it, look for listings that state nickel-free and name the metals used. Plated items can be fine at first and cause problems once the plating wears. If you have a reaction, speak to a pharmacist or doctor.

Getting ring sizes right

Ring sizes use different systems: the US uses numbers (such as 6 or 7½) and the UK uses letters (such as M or N½). Check which system the listing uses, and use the seller's conversion chart rather than a general one.

  1. Use a ring sizer or measure a ring that already fits the same finger well.
  2. Measure at the end of the day when your fingers are warm. Fingers are smaller when cold.
  3. Allow for knuckles. The ring needs to pass over the knuckle, not just fit the base of the finger.
  4. Wide bands fit tighter than thin ones, so you may need a slightly larger size.

String and paper methods are less accurate. Check whether the seller offers free resizing or exchanges.

Returns and what to check before buying

  • Personalised, engraved or resized items are often non-returnable.
  • Earrings may be excluded for hygiene reasons.
  • Check for certificates for gemstones and any stated purity.
  • Insured, tracked delivery is worth having for valuable pieces.

If you're buying from overseas, read our international shipping and customs guide, as precious metals can attract duties.

The short version

Look past the product name to the metal description: karat, base metal and plating type. In the UK, look for a hallmark; in the US, a quality mark plus a trademark from a seller you trust. Measure ring size carefully in the right system, and check the returns rules before ordering anything personalised.