PickGlobeA suit is one of the harder things to buy online, because small differences in fit show. The good news is that suit sizing is more systematic than most clothing, and a few measurements go a long way.
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What to measure
Ask someone to help, and measure over a thin shirt, not a thick jumper.
- Chest: around the fullest part, under the arms and across the shoulder blades.
- Waist: around your natural waist, usually just above the navel. Don't pull the tape tight.
- Hips: around the fullest part of the hips and seat.
- Shoulders: from one shoulder point to the other, across the back.
- Sleeve: from the shoulder point down to the wrist bone, with your arm relaxed.
- Inseam: from the crotch to the ankle, along the inside of the leg.
- Height: barefoot, standing straight.
Compare these with the seller's own size chart, not a general one.
How suit sizes work
Jacket sizes usually follow the chest measurement in inches in the US and UK, such as 38 or 40, followed by a length letter:
- S (short): for men under about 5 ft 7 in.
- R (regular): for average heights.
- L (long): for men over about 6 ft 1 in.
Trousers are sold by waist and inseam, or as part of a set with a fixed "drop", which is the difference between the jacket chest size and the trouser waist. A jacket and trousers that don't match your proportions can be mixed in some stores, so check whether the seller offers separates.
European sizes are different: they are often about ten numbers higher than the US and UK chest size, so a size 50 is roughly a 40. Use the seller's own conversion chart.
Choose the fit
| Fit | Cut | Works for |
|---|---|---|
| Classic or regular | More room through the chest and waist | A comfortable, traditional shape |
| Slim | Closer to the body, narrower trousers | Slimmer builds, or a modern look |
| Skinny or extra slim | Very close fit | Narrow builds, and less movement room |
| Tailored or modern | Between classic and slim | A balance of shape and comfort |
If you are between fits, the roomier cut is easier to alter down than a tight one is to let out.
What a tailor can and cannot change
| Usually easy | Harder or not possible |
|---|---|
| Trouser hems and cuffs | Shoulder width |
| Sleeve length at the cuff (if there are spare inches) | Chest, if the jacket is far too small |
| Taking in the waist | Changing the jacket length greatly |
| Taking in the jacket sides slightly | Letting out when there is no spare fabric |
Because shoulders are hard to alter, choose the jacket size that fits your shoulders and chest first, then alter the rest.
Materials and construction
- Wool and wool blends breathe well and hold their shape. Heavier weights suit cooler weather.
- Polyester blends are usually cheaper and creases fall out more easily. They can be less breathable.
- Lining and canvas: a full lining helps the jacket drape and wear well. Check whether the listing describes the construction.
- Care label: many suits are dry-clean only, so check the care instructions.
Our guide to understanding fabric labels explains the terms.
Wedding and formal events
- Order early. Allow time for delivery, a possible exchange and alterations. Don't order a few days before the event.
- Check what comes in the set. Some stores sell the jacket and trousers separately, and the waistcoat, shirt or tie extra.
- Match the group. If several people need matching suits, check that the colour and fabric are identical across orders.
Check the store and returns
- Can you exchange for another size, and who pays postage?
- Is there a time limit, and does the suit need to be unworn with tags attached?
- Is alteration included, or available in-store?
Our guide to reading clothing size charts and refunds and chargebacks help here.
The short version
Measure chest, waist, shoulders, sleeve and inseam, then compare them with the seller's own chart. Choose the jacket for the shoulders and chest, let a tailor adjust hems, sleeves and waist, order well ahead of any event, and check exchange terms before you pay.