PickGlobeUpflush Toilets for Basements: How to Choose the Right One
Adding a bathroom below the sewer line usually means breaking up a concrete floor to dig a drain. An upflush toilet, also called a macerating toilet, avoids most of that work: it grinds waste and pumps it up and out through a small pipe into your existing drain. This guide explains how they work and how to compare models from any store.
How an upflush toilet works
An upflush system has two parts: a toilet bowl and a pump unit (the macerator) that sits behind it or in the wall.
- When you flush, waste and water flow into the macerator box instead of a floor drain.
- A blade grinds the waste into a slurry.
- A pump pushes the slurry up and along a narrow discharge pipe to the nearest soil stack or drain line.
Because the pipe is narrow and the pump does the work, you can place the toilet where gravity drainage isn't possible: a basement, a garage, an attic conversion or a room far from the main stack.
Is an upflush toilet right for you?
| Situation | Upflush toilet | Traditional drain or ejector pit |
|---|---|---|
| Basement with no floor drain | Good fit, no digging | Requires breaking concrete for a pit |
| Adding a half bath quickly | Good fit | Slower, more construction |
| Heavy daily use by a large household | Possible, but wears faster | Usually more robust |
| Frequent power cuts | Cannot flush without power | Gravity drains still work |
| Renters or temporary setups | Often removable | Permanent |
If you want a full bathroom with a shower and a sink in a basement that already has a rough-in drain, a standard toilet may be simpler. If there's no drain below floor level, an upflush system is usually the lower-effort option.
What to compare before you buy
Pump power (watts)
Most residential units list motors from about 400W to 1,000W. More power generally means a stronger macerator and better ability to push waste up and over a distance. A half bath with only a toilet doesn't need the most powerful unit. A full bathroom with a shower, sink and possibly a washing machine connected to the same pump benefits from more power.
Number of inlets
The macerator box can accept water from other fixtures, not only the toilet. Common configurations:
- Toilet only: the simplest and cheapest setup.
- 2 to 3 inlets: toilet plus a sink and/or a shower.
- 4 inlets: toilet, sink, shower and a bathtub or a laundry connection.
Count every fixture you plan to add now and later. Choosing a box with an extra inlet costs little compared with replacing the unit.
Vertical lift and horizontal run
Manufacturers state how high the pump can push waste (vertical lift) and how far it can travel (horizontal run). Every foot of lift reduces the available horizontal distance, so check the chart in the manual, not only the headline number. Measure:
- the height from the pump outlet to where the discharge pipe joins your drain, and
- the length of pipe from the pump to that point.
Pick a unit whose rating comfortably exceeds both. Running close to the limit makes the pump work harder and shortens its life.
Toilet bowl shape and height
- Elongated vs round: elongated bowls are more comfortable for most adults; round bowls save space in a small room.
- Standard vs comfort height: comfort-height (taller) bowls are easier for tall people and anyone with limited mobility.
- One-piece vs two-piece: one-piece toilets are easier to clean, while two-piece toilets are lighter to carry down stairs.
Flush type and water use
Dual-flush models use less water for liquid waste. Lower water use matters even more with a pump, because every flush is pumped out.
Noise
The pump runs for a few seconds after every flush and whenever a connected sink or shower drains. Some models are designed to be quieter, which matters if the bathroom is next to a bedroom or living space. Look for a decibel rating, and read buyer reviews about real-world noise.
Warranty and parts
Check the warranty length on the pump separately from the bowl, and whether replacement parts (blade, seals, switch) are sold by the brand. A pump that can be serviced will outlast one that has to be replaced whole.
Installation checklist
Rules differ by country, state and city, so check local plumbing and electrical codes first. Most installations need:
- A dedicated power outlet near the pump, usually GFCI-protected.
- A vent for the macerator box, as specified in the manual.
- A discharge pipe of the size the manufacturer specifies, with a check valve so waste doesn't flow back.
- A connection point to an existing soil stack or drain line.
- Access to the pump for future maintenance. Don't box it in permanently.
Many owners with plumbing experience install these themselves, but a licensed plumber can confirm that the setup meets code. Some areas require a permit or inspection.
Living with an upflush toilet
- Only flush toilet paper. Wipes, including ones labelled "flushable", sanitary products and paper towels are the most common cause of jams.
- Descale regularly in hard-water areas, using the cleaner the manufacturer recommends.
- Expect brief pump noise after each use.
- Power outages: the toilet can't flush until power returns. Don't use it during an outage.
Frequently asked questions
Do macerating toilets smell?
A correctly vented and sealed system shouldn't smell. Odors usually point to a venting problem, a failing seal or a lack of regular cleaning.
Are upflush toilets noisy?
The pump makes noise for a few seconds after each flush, louder than a gravity toilet. The level varies by model, so compare stated decibel ratings and reviews if noise matters.
How long do macerating toilets last?
Lifespan depends on use, water hardness and maintenance. Following the manual, flushing only toilet paper and descaling regularly help the pump last longer. Check how long the warranty covers the pump.
Can I connect a shower and sink?
Yes, if the unit has enough inlets and is rated for the extra water. Check the inlet count and whether the manufacturer allows a shower or bathtub on that model.
Upflush toilet or sewage ejector pump?
A sewage ejector pump sits in a sealed pit below the floor and can handle a whole basement bathroom and more. It is more robust but requires excavation. An upflush toilet is faster and less invasive to install, at the cost of more sensitivity to what goes down it.
Where to shop
Upflush toilets are sold by big-box hardware stores, online marketplaces and specialist bathroom brands. Systems for home use typically cost from a few hundred dollars to around a thousand, depending on power, inlets and bowl style.
One specialist brand to compare is Simple Project, which sells macerating toilet systems in several power and inlet configurations alongside vanities and other bathroom fixtures. Whatever store you choose, use the checklist above: measure your lift and run, count your fixtures, and check the warranty before you buy. Our guide on comparing prices across stores can help you find the best deal.